Off to the Netherlands

Off to the Netherlands

                So much travel I am falling behind on my posts!  Last weekend our group had an awesome trip to The Netherlands to The Hague and Amsterdam, and I also visited the city of Leiden on my own.  The Netherlands takes the silver medal for being my second country visited outside the US.

For those of you who were confused as I was of the Holland-Netherlands distinction, they are used interchangably in English. However strictly speaking the country is the Netherlands, and Holland is the name of a former region of the country, now split into North and South Holland. 

The first two days were the program part of the trip in the Hague, known for its international institutions and swarms of diplomats. We started off at the Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons, the group that goes in and investigates whether countries are properly disposing of chemical weapons that have been stockpiled over the last century.  They were recently in the news attempting to assess whether Libya has the ability to use its 9.5 tonnes of mustard gas.

Our second meeting on Thursday was at EuroJust - the organization that fights cross-border organized crime (mafia crimes, human smuggling).  A major problem has been the lack of communication between national investigators.  The example was given of a Europe wide sting operation that included Belgium, but Belgium could not participate because its laws prohibited a warranted entry into a residence between 12 and 6 in the morning!

The Hague isn’t particularly known for its nightlife, but I guess even politicians like to go out every once in a while so we did find some places.  We found an Irish place the first night, and when you seen an Irish pub it is often secret code for “English speaking.” We also went to this interesting "club" called the Mad House both nights - we actually had the whole place to ourselves the first night (The Hague on a Wednesday night)

In Chinatown in the Hague for dinner beforehand:

On Friday we were at the International Criminal Court, and we saw the trial of a rebel group commander in the Central African Republic who was accused of a long list of the worst imaginable charges.  We listened to the testimony of a father whose family was personally attacked. It was shocking and quite sobering to think about all of the atrocities committed by the people tried at the ICC.
On a side note, I feel almost spoiled as a student of American government to be going to all of these international bodies after just having one or two lectures on them! They really pack a lot into the program - so busy that our lessons on Eurojust and the ICC came just the week before our visits.  The list already is exhaustive:  Chemical Weapons, EuroJust, ICC, European Court of Justice, The Council, Committee of the Regions...

After the Hague, the group headed to Amsterdam but I stopped in Leiden to visit Julia! After a train delay and some fun communication issues, we met up and she took me around the city.  We ate at a pancake ("pannkoeken") place, a Dutch specialty which was delicious.  It was great to see Julia in her natural environment (she is Dutch!) - one of the many pros being she could translate for me.  It was great to catch up and see another part of the Netherlands I wouldn't normally see. 

Then to Amsterdam!  On Saturday morning I went biking with Kristen, Laura, and Monica. We rented them for the day and rode all over the city.

We would ride for over an hour without having any idea where we were going!  We are sure we saw everything there is to see in Amsterdam, we're just not sure which site was which.

The city is really neat for biking - there are bike lanes everywhere.  Our professor warned us not to get killed while walking by the bikes because they don't stop, so we jokingly decided we would be safer on bikes. Only problem was they didn't stop for inexperienced city bikers either!

We ducked out of the cold for lunch at an Italian place:

And we pulled out a map to find out where we were because we really had no clue. Turns out we were across from the Anne Frank house:

We didn't get a chance to go in because of the wait unfortunately.  It started raining in the afternoon, but I think that made it even more fun - we were completely soaked and cold but loving every second of it. We ended up in Amsterdam's Vondelpark:

And we also passed by the Heineken brewery right near the park:

We finally decided to go back after stopping multiple times for coffee, but we took a busy road by accident and lost Monica.  Kristen Laura and I went back to the bike shop to wait, hoping she could find her way back.  Althought not a planned part of the trip, we ended up playing Uno over tea for a solid hour in an Amsterdam bike shop: 

We had the good fortune of staying at a really nice Christian hostel in Amsterdam.  Somehow I was tasked with booking the hostel and of course someone asked on our way, "Why would you book a Christian hostel in Amsterdam??"  However, by  the end of it everyone loved the hostel because the no drugs and no alcohol in the hostel rule meant a quiet night's sleep and safe place to stay in the city that has...a reputation for its nightlife.  Plus they had free breakfast and even a surprise free dinner one night.   I did have to laugh at the irony though - the hostel was located just steps from the red light district.

Thanks to Julia's advice in Leiden, I suggested our group get pannakoeken pancakes in Amsterdam - they were delicious and humongous, in a neat warehouse restaurant along a canal.

A view from the walk after dinner: 

After dinner we went to meet up with some other friends at the St. Christopher's hostel bar.

From St. Christopher's Hostel Bar (Friday night):

A great trip overall - three very different Dutch cities spent with great people, really a lot of fun.

Now for the part you've been waiting for -

More Random Bits

Our group makes frequent use of the term TMA (“too much American”) when going out. Among other situations, it is invoked when group members (a) are too loud (b) say something culturally insensitive or (c) talk about McDonald's.

The Netherlands is known for its excellent Indonesian food – attributed to the fact that Indonesia is a former colony of The Netherlands.  As a general rule, we were informed good ethnic food will appear from a country's former colonies.

When picking up Asian food in the Netherlands, understanding the number they are calling in Dutch is incredibly difficult.  Add in an Asian accent speaking in Dutch and it’s nearly impossible.

The capital of the Netherlands is Amsterdam, but most of the Dutch government and the international institutions are all in The Hague.  I wonder why they don’t want to be in Amsterdam?

A lost American asked me “Parlez-vous anglais?” (Do you speak English?).   I told him he was lucky because it was the only language I spoke.  He was trying to get to the campus we are studying at – it may have been the only scenario where I could give flawless directions in Brussels.

I'm In a Castle!

I know I’ve been in Belgium for a while when I start recognizing the neighbors while walking home- and I don’t even need the calendar to tell me that I’ve been here for a month.

As you may have read, Belgium has overtaken Iraq as the world record holder for most days without a government!  (There is still a functioning placeholder government, but it has no real power).  This set off a wave of amusing protests in the last couple of days throughout the country.  Some of the most notable:

·         Students and seniors alike stripping down in Ghent to protest the “streak”

·         A “frites” Revolution  (French Fries)  organized by students, invoking Belgium’s specialty

·         Jokers gathering in front of the justice palace

·         A famous actor has called for a shaving boycott until the government is seated

·         A mock quiz show awarding the Prime Minister’s job to the winner

I have tried to get all of the different sides to put their differences aside and do what is best for Belgium, but for some reason I had very little effect.

Last weekend we visited 3 cities in 3 days – Leuven, Antwerp, and Ghent, which were coincidentally the sites of many of the protests this week because of their large college populations. 

LEUVEN

The town hall was built around 1450 and is one of the trademarks of Leuven. You can see each one of the ledges has an incredibly detailed statue-  these weren’t actually added until 1850 because there was an intense political debate in the 1400s on which historical figures should be represented.

The library of the Catholic University of Leuven was burned by the Germans in WWI, and then rebuilt with American university donations (not including American University). 

Fly statue – I don’t have a good explanation for why this statue is in the middle of the town square.

ANTWERP

You may recognize the train station from the flashmob video of "Do Re Me" – Worth watching if you’ve never seen it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQLCZOG202k

It is said that Antwerp (“Antwerpen” in Flemish) gets its name from the word  “handwerpren” which means handthrowing. In this statue of the mythical hero Brabo throwing the hand of the giant Antigoon, who was charging sailors high fees for use of the harbor.   In the background is the Antwerp City Hall.

Peter Paul Rubens’ The Elevation of the Cross  (1610) in the Cathedral of Our Lady.

The Steen – originally built in the 900s to protect the Holy Roman Empire. Only part of the original castle is still there.

GHENT

Gravensteen – This site has had a castle since the 1100s when it was built by the Count of Flanders, but it has been re-built several times.  Inside was a museum of armor, swords, and torture instruments used under the Count of Flanders rule. And of course, the view from the top was really awesome.

"Why Are We at the Beach In February?"

You are thinking one of two things-  either "Belgium has beaches?" or "Why would you go in February?"  Beglium actually does has beaches, and with some history too - apparently where the British and French soldiers retreated when Germany invaded during WWII.  We spent some time touring the beach town, having lunch on the water, and then taking pictures with some of the statues:

This was the first week of my internship. I am working for a German think tank, and I love the work so far. The only catch is my computer and keyboard are both in German. I have learned that "Drucken" means "Print."

I’m going to be analyzing the budget policies of the European Union in areas like technology, innovation, and competition policy (thrilling, I know!).  It seems like a really good place to work – right next to the European Commission and the Council, and everyone in the office has been great so far. 

The blog posts should really be picking up and getting better given our schedule for the rest of the semester.  Here are my travel weekends for my time in Europe:

• Bruges
• Leuven, Antwerp, and Gent
• The Hague, Amsterdam (and maybe Leiden)
• Luxembourg and parts of western Germany
• Berlin
• Oslo, Norway - 5 day trip
• The Balkans - 10 day trip
• Rome
• Paris
• Barcelona
• Madrid

More Tidbits

In 1968, the UK applied to join the European Union, but France's DeGaulle said over my dead body.  DeGaulle died in 1970, and the UK joined the Union shortly after.

15% of the European Parliament’s budget is dedicated solely to the transportation costs of moving from Brussels to Strasbourg, France once a month because France won’t allow Brussels to host all meetings.

There is actually a member of the Parliament who is a Swedish Ghost Pirate.  (He is a member of the Swedish Pirate Party and is one of the 18 “ghost” members who cannot legally be seated.)

My internship primarily functions in German.  This means that on a semi-regular basis I encounter French, Dutch, English, and German.  Since coming to Brussels I have also heard Italian, Spanish, Czech, and Russian.

Because Brussels is officially bilingual with French and Dutch, all official signs have to be in French and Dutch.  This at least gives me two chances to figure out what they say.

Belgium has the lowest per-capita number of McDonald’s in the developed world.  It is also the only country in the world where McDonalds is not the #1 burger chain (this honor is taken by Quick Burger). 

My tour book attributes the McDonald’s fact to the healthy sandwich shop alternatives, but with all of the kebab, fries, chocolate, and waffle stands I seriously doubt you, tour book.

In an attempt to draw in business, the bars around the famous fries (“frites”) place downtown may be the only bars that have the signs “Frites Accepted Here.”

Downtown there is either graffiti or artwork of two parachuting laundry machines and a fox about 100 feet up the side of a building:

In Bruges

Our first program trip outside of Brussels was to the north to visit the historic city of Bruges, Belgium.  No, I have not seen the movie “In Bruges,” but from what I hear about the movie, the city was not quite the same.  Nonetheless we did have enjoy the trip.  Winding canals, incredibly old buildings, tiny cafes and chocolate shops…  We saw Michaelangelo’s Madonna and Child which was his only statue to leave Italy during his lifetime.  Bruges also has a tabernacle with what is claimed to be Christ’s blood.

                Of all the sights Bruges had to offer, the group spent the most time at the Halve Maan brewery (my vote was for the Convent, but I guess we can’t always win).  We took a tour through the aged brewery and learned all about how beer is made.  The incredibly narrow steps eventually took us to the top for an amazing view over the city. Best of all, the tour ended with a free sample for all of our hard work climbing the stairs. 

               

                This week we had our interviews for our European Union related internships in Brussels.  While the 17 of us were competing against each other to some extent,  everyone seems pretty pleased with where they ended up.   I am going to be working for a non-profit think tank right near the European Commission on EU budgetary policy and economic integration.  First day is on Tuesday!

                It feels like just a few days since I arrived, and I am amazed at how great everything has been so far -  the orientation, the internship process, the travel, the homestay, and of course, the people on the program.  They have made it a very fun few weeks here and it is great to really get to know some new people.

More Brussels Bits:   

(I apologize in advance for those who don’t like reading snippets of random thoughts – this is apparently what Facebook has done to my mind!)

While my French is still horribly non-existent, my Franglish is rapidly improving.

Just as I was getting a grip on French basics, I ran into some Dutch speakers (Julia, teach me your language!).

The other day a gentleman offered to hang my coat on a "hook**".  Makes me wonder what types of things I am accidentally saying in French. 

Cherry beer is amazing.

Putting fruit in beer actually has a historical basis. Centuries ago, Belgians needed ways to preserve the extra fruit harvest, so they put it in their beers to keep it fresh throughout the year.

However, bananas beer has no historical basis, as Belgium has never grown bananas.  Banana beer is a recently invented tourist trap for suckers like me who will have anything banana flavored.

Cookie beer is a similar tourist trap, and does not taste as good as it may sound.

Each type of beer has to be served in a uniquely shaped glass.   

There is more dog doo-doo on the streets here.  I can’t tell whether it’s because there’s more dogs or whether less people pick it up (Warning to anyone who comes to visit).

By the end of the semester, I will be happy if I have figured out the difference between the European Council, the Council of the European Union, and the Council of Europe.   

Private government meetings will be leaked only if there are two interpreters in the room.  The officials blame one of the interpreters, that interpreter blames the other interpreter, and nobody knows who leaked.

I can walk to the European Parliament from my house (unfortunately, this does not make me an expert on the European Parliament).

Cultural Bits

For those travelers out there, you will know it's my first time in Europe, but here are some things I have noticed so far about the city and country.

They are incredibly energy conscious here - from water, electricity, heating, widespread recycling, fuel efficiency.

By the same token, you can not get tap water in restaurants.  Buying bottled water all of the time seems to contradict the environmental theme.

Much higher gas prices here (2-3X the US), but also much higher gas mileage.

The death penalty is a moral abomination.

Gay marriage is legal, and not just in some states.

You have to belong to a hunting club to have a gun.

You are fined if you don't vote.

Violent crime is less frequent here, but there is more petty theft.  

You have to pay to go to the bathroom. I did not factor this into my budget (all 30 eurocents).

Instead of learning each other's languages, the Flemish (Belgian Dutch) speaking people and the Francophone (French-speaking) people will often be able to converse only in English.

Most written things here are only in French or Flemish, and sometimes English. The one English-only sign I saw was in a touristy cafe for "Garbage" and "Recycle." Presumably only tourists would need instructions.

In a store where no employees speak English, Ke$ha or lady gaga will be playing.

One of the most famous statues in Brussels is of a little boy peeing.

There is a dish of raw meat here called "Filet Americain." Unsuspecting American tourists will often order it mistaking it for American meat.

There are no bags in supermarkets. You must buy reusable bags. You look pitiful right now, DC bag tax.

Dogs are welcome in many cafes and shopping centers.

Instead of "working out" you "fitness" (verb).

If you say "peu" it means you speak a little French. If you accidently say "peur" it means you are afraid of French.  My subconscious often makes me say "peur."

Bienvenue a Bruxelles!

I have arrived in Bruxelles!
The flight was pretty uneventful, with the exception of the old man sitting next to me singing love songs and the people in front of me watching "Taken" - possibly the worst movie selection for a flight to Europe.

We walked a little bit in the downtown area of narrow winding cobblestone streets with a bakery and chocolatier on every block. But just like any major city, you see a subway or pizza hut if you turn the corner!

We've taken tours of much of the downtown areas - and the history is really incredible, everything from the Spanish Inquisition executions on the Grand Place to King Louis XIV's destruction of Brussels.


AU's Center is actually on a medical school:  picture 12,000 students studying med, pharmaceuticals, and everything else and 17 American undergrads studying foreign relations seems pretty out of place. On the plus side, there are labcoats in the bookstore should I ever feel the need to purchase one!  My homestay has been great so far - very nice family and right downtown.

While I probably won't be eating very many Brussels sprouts this semester, I will be having plenty of Belgian chocolate, waffles, beer and "frites" (French fries, invented in Belgium).

It is very much an adventure trying to order food in French - there is a lot of pointing and nodding for sure.  I have "turkey" and "ham" down, but everything else is very much a mystery. It's actually fun having to guess.

Despite the cold and the rain, there is always something going on here, and it should be an amazing semester.

Bienvenue a Bruxelles!